Sunday, June 19, 2005

Home

...after a l o n g plane ride. We missed our connecting flight in Chicago (I just don't seem to have much luck when coming home; last time I had to spend the night in Texas) but made it to Nashville later Saturday night. It's great to be home.

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

An explanation

All this time I've been writing entries on this thingy, thinking that my family was reading (spellbound, of course) about my adventures. Well, last night when I was on the phone with my mom I mentioned that I had just gotten in from the internet bar, where I had added another post. She was like, “Oh good, the last one we read was the one about Suzhou.” “Hmmm . . .I've been posting fairly regularly.” So I thought. It seems that while I have been writing fairly regularly, I have not been posting what I have written. I didn’t bother to translate the Chinese characters on the blogspot page to make sure I was hitting the right button, so it was saving my entries but not posting them. Ah well. Sorry about that.

Monday, June 13, 2005

Nanjing

We took another train trip this weekend to Nanjing, which has been the capital of China several times during the country's history. Quite interesting. Saturday we visited the Sun Yat Sen Mausoleum--the only place in China that displays the Taiwanese (Kuomintang) flag. It's actually a mural on the ceiling of two of the rooms in the mausoleum. Sun is a very important figure in Chinese history. A Google search will give you a lot more information, but basically Sun fought for the downfall of the Qing dynasty, was China's first president for a short time in 1911, founded the organization that would become the Kuomintang Party (KMT), and is generally revered by both the mainlanders and the Taiwanese, as odd as this seems. Probably his most important contribution to politics was his "Three People's Principles": nationalism, democracy, and people's livelihood. Apparently the Chinese see no irony in posting this all over Sun's memorial.

Sunday we went first to the Nanjing Massacre Memorial. In late 1937, during the early stages of WWII in Asia--what is called the Japanese War of Aggression around here--the KMT government fled their capital in Nanjing for Chunking in the middle-western part of the country. The city fell to the Japanese in December, and Japanese army launched a massacre intended to shock all of China into submission. For the next six weeks, Japanese troops carried out systematic burning, rape, and killing of civilians as well as disarmed soldiers. Needless to say, I wasn't expecting a cheerful scene at the memorial; nonetheless, I left feeling uneasy. Not because several of the exhibits were so graphic, although they were--in one place they actually dug up a mass grave and left it exposed, with close-ups and descriptions of particularly gruesome pathology reports--it was more the general tone of the place. Dr. Wilson asked me as we were leaving what I thought, and I told him I was fighting my (instinctive?) reaction; the memorial just didn't seem very respectful. I couldn't really explain it very well, but I have since decided I was fighting cynicism. I liked the way Dr. Wilson put it (characteristically understated): "Well, it's less than subtle." Then, "and highly politicized.” Yes, I guess that’s it. It’s obvious that there is a battle going on over how history is interpreted in Asia. One of us asked Dr. Wilson what he thought about the History book controversy; he replied that one Japanese official told him that the Japanese were willing to apologize for their country’s militant past, but that Beijing was unwilling to accept the apology. Japan does not want to give China another opportunity to rub their faces in the dirt and demand more reparations. This sounds plausible to me. Despite the claims all over the memorial that its purpose was to “promote peace,” Beijing seems to be using, and possibly encouraging, anti-Japanese sentiment as a political tool. Just my $0.002 yuan.

After the memorial, we went to a Confucian temple. Or I should say, we thought we were going to a Confucian temple. Just like in Suzhou, we thought we were going to a Daoist temple. In both cases, the temples had been turned into shopping centers, resplendent with soo-vih-neers, neon, and concession stands. Lovely. Although to be absolutely truthful, I can’t say that I was disappointed, personally. I went to a Buddhist temple in Beijing, and I was not looking forward to repeating that very hot, incense-filled, and consequently lightheaded experience. I can, however, understand why these experiences were a little troubling to those in our group who were expecting a religious experience. The comparison is too easy, but I have to say it—money can indeed be a god.

After a very interesting day, we went back to the hotel to grab our backpacks and a quick drink before heading to the train station. It was pretty hot (Nanjing is considered one of China’s “Four Ovens” apparently), so we didn’t want to get to the train station too early and have to wait in the sun. Well, we cut it a little close. When we got in the taxi, Christina told our driver where we were going; he asked what time our train left, and when we told him he just started laughing. “5:31?! Impossible! Teehehehee! You won’t make it. You should have left yourself at least an hour—this is rush hour! Hahahaheehehe! Of course I’ll drive fast! I’ll do my best for you!!” Then periodically, “Teehehehee! 5:31!” or “you only have 13 minutes….tahaheehee!” and “I’m hurrying! We have to be safe, you know. 5:31!!” We made it to the train station with about 7 minutes to go, and rushed to the platform as per our helpful driver’s suggestions, hoping the whole time that the rest of our group had managed to get a taxi—preferably one whose driver was not afraid to step on it. We made it, and a couple of minutes later the rest of our group joined us. Apparently, their driver had been more concerned about the cat sleeping in his lap as he drove than getting them to the station in time, but they made it nonetheless. Thankfully.

Wednesday, June 08, 2005

A full day

We had five arranged interviews today, one after the other with an hour break for lunch after the first two. Our first interview was unremarkable; the only thing that stands out in my mind is that the lady really wasn't too fond of her son-in-law. Our second interviewee was quite lively and didn't sit down for much of the interview. She repeatedly emphasized the need for "everyone to work together to build a harmonious society." Everything pretty much came back to that. After that, lunch on the "bar end" of the street--the street that we're working on right now was kind of Shanghai's red-light district for awhile; although it seems to have calmed down a little in recent years, it's still a pretty lively place at night. I thought it was pretty funny though, when we asked our interviewees what they thought about all the bars, if they could see signs of changing morality or what they thought about the place in general, they almost all replied that they were old and didn't frequent that end of the street. That's for the young folks. And the foreigners, of course.

The first interview of the afternoon three was interesting. We talked to a husband and wife who had both been in the PLA, she as a radio operator (our translator first translated this as "radioactive," but got it straightened out after he saw the expression on our faces), and the husband was a combat medic. He was part of the "volunteer" "north-east border security" force that fought in Korea, and she had raised their two children pretty much by herself. We asked him about his impressions of their neighborhood when he fist joined his wife there after he retired from the army, and he said that after living and fighting in small villages and inhospitable terrain, he thought the Shanghai neighborhood was excellent.

This stuff wasn't the focus of our interview of course, but I'm finding that many times the most interesting information from an interview comes out when we're trying to get context to understand how the changes in Shanghai have affected people's lives--the main goal of our research here. But context is certainly important, especially since we didn't start out with a good understanding of many of the issues and events that shape life here. For instance, reading about the Cultural Revolution for History class and talking to people who lived through it are totally different experiences. There's nothing in U.S. history that even comes close to the extensiveness of that chaos. I knew it had happened, but when we first started doing interviews I didn't really include it in my conceptualization of what these people's lives had been like. It was only after a couple of our interviewees mentioned it almost in passing that I realized how this kind of event, maybe like 9-11 for Americans but spread out over several years and bringing destruction to the entire nation, would be part of the frame of one's life story.

Our last interview of the day was awesome. Ms. Zhou ushered us in and offered us our third round of tea for the day, this time a very nice kind I had never had. She said it was so nice to have young people visit, and she thought France must be an interesting place. When we told her that we were actually from the U.S., she said "Oh good, I know a little English." Then, in English, "I don't get to speak it much; in fact, I haven't really used it since the 1950s. I'm afraid I don't speak it very well--I know my grammar is not very good." Just like that. I commented that she was being too modest--her English was excellent--to which she replied in Chinese, "No, it's only so-so. I think your Chinese is better than my English." Well, she was flat out wrong on that point. Most of the interview was in English, and I was amazed at how eloquently she expressed herself. It wasn't just that her vocabulary was extensive or that her grammar, contrary to her disclaimer, was really good, it was the way the communicated deep ideas simply but effectively. I guess another part of the delight was her manner, which was earnest and very kind. Her Chinese was also easy for me to understand.

She told us about how she loved her neighborhood and was very thankful for her neighbors, who looked took care of her. Her son too, she said, was a very good son, although she wished he would just stay and visit with her instead of insisting they go to a restaurant to eat. "But he's very busy, I suppose I shouldn't be so selfish." She told us about her grandsons, whom she delighted in, and about visiting them in Hong Kong when they lived there for a few years. We asked her what she did to keep busy, and she told us that she sometimes tutored students when her health permitted. She explained that now the education system is extremely competitive, and families who can afford it pay for after-school tutors for their children. Parents also help as they are able. Students whose families can't afford tutors and whose parents aren't educated are really at a disadvantage, so she likes to help these students whenever she can. A few questions later, she told us (reluctantly, because he was dead and she didn't want to speak ill of him) that her husband had "loved younger and more beautiful women" and had left her to raise their son by herself. "It was difficult." "But," she added, "my son helped me, and he didn't ask for expensive things like many children do." So now she helps women in similar situations whenever she finds the opportunity. She said, "I really want to be able to help people. Now my health is not very good, so it is often difficult. But I do not want to be useless." Judging only from our hour and a half interview, I can't imagine that to be the case.

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

Censorship, and reading Reading Lolita in Tehran in China

The other day I tried to call the Navy office to check in; I called both the office number and a LT's cell phone number. On both tries I got a message--in English, but obviously of Chinese origin because of the accent--"Sorry, you do not have the right to dial this number." Lovely.

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I get a listserv from CNN about stories having to do with China. Today this popped up in my inbox:

"Report: China's new bid to gag Web
06/07/05 01:14 AM, EDT
China is to close unregistered China-based domestic Web sites and blogs, a media watchdog said, as the government tightens its grip on the Internet."

Unfortunately (ironically?), since I'm in China, I of course can't access the CNN website to read the story. Incidentally, I also can't see my own blog.

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I finished both of the books I brought with me (one on the plane and one mostly on the train to Hangzhou; no, I'm not spending all my time in China reading), so I borrowed a book from Dr. Wilson. He actually has 2 that I considered buying to bring with me. The one that I'm reading now, Reading Lolita in Tehran, is about a female Iranian professor of English literature, and her battles, personal and public, with the Ayatollah’s regime. She writes a lot about the censorship, and the arbitrary exercise of power in Iran. It's an interesting book to read in a Communist country. (Not as good as The Kite Runner, however. I think I made the right decision buying that one instead.)

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That's it for now. Later I might post some parts of interviews I've typed up. We're going to be pretty busy for the next few days, though. I continue to get lots of listening comprehension practice.

Sunday, June 05, 2005

Suzhou and the English Corner

We had a really nice day in Suzhou yesterday. Suzhou is 'in Shanghai's neighborhood' to quote one of the guys I talked to today (more about that in a sec.), and is a big and growing economic center. But we went to see the gardens, for which the city of about 7 million is famous. It was really hot, but we had fun nonetheless, visiting a couple of pagodas and the "Garden of the Master of the Nets." Why it's named that I couldn't tell you, but it was a nice place.

This morning we went to the "English Corner" that takes place every Sunday in the People's Square Park downtown. All kinds and ages of people gather there to practice English. A street-artist who draws tourists' portraits for money invited us, but businessmen, schoolkids (often dragged and prodded by their parents), and retired people all show up. We drew a crowd, of course, and split up to talk to people. Eveyone wanted to know of course where I was from, why I was in China, what I thought about Shanghai, ect. My answers to these questions led to some interesting conversations about Shanghai's development. One man who has lived in Los Angeles for 18 years told me that he learned English in the English Corner, so he always came back to visit when he came back to Shanghai. His story is amazing; he was "sent down" during the Cutural Revolution to work farming rice. He said he usually worked 14 hour days, getting only 3 bowls of rice to eat all day. When he was able to come back to Shanghai, he passed the examination to get into the university, but at that time there was an age limit for entrance, and he was disqualified because he was too old. He said he was angry and frustrated, but he did not give up. An uncle in the U.S. was able to get him a job in the U.S., and he married an American woman. When he went to apply for citizenship, the interviewer gave him a hard time about how he came to the U.S., but shook his hand and congratulated him on becoming an American citizen when the man recited JFK's "Ask not what your country can do for you" speech in its entirety. He never went to college, but he has 4 licenses and owns a contracting business. He said when he went to take an exam to get the first license, he was in a room full of college graduates, but he passed and many of them didn't. This, he said, was one reason why America is so amazing; hard work (in this case hard studying) creates opportunities that are unheard of in China.

I talked with another person about movies. The subject came up when someone commented that Marcus (who was standing in his own little crowd a few meters away from us) looked like the movie star from Titanic. Marcus thought this was pretty funny when I told him later. Anyway, we talked about movies for a while, and how he thinks the English in movies is often very hard to understand. Then someone asked me if I had seen "Farenheit 911." I said no, and he asked me why not. I told him that the movie was very controversial in the U.S., that it's intention was to attack the President, and that many people thought its director had skewed facts to this end. Everyone in the little crowd around me thought this was very intereting. The man said, "Well, that's really good too then; I mean, people can make movies about their opinions and let the people decide. Here in China I think we only get one side of things." You know, I said, that's a really good way too look at this movie. A testament to America's freedoms. Later in the internet bar, I came across an entry from one of my favorite bloggers, (one of the few that are not blocked here in China); in it he quotes Thomas Jefferson: "... let them stand as monuments to the safety with which error of opinion may be tolerated where reason is left free to combat it." Indeed.

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

Snippets of Shanghai

We had the opportunity to the circus a couple of days ago. It was held in a building that looked like the ball at Epcot center on the outside, and featured some pretty amazing acrobatics, magic tricks, and 6 motorcycles in a spherical cage. Dr. Wilson commented that if they had thrown in a couple of pedestrians it would have been a lot like Shanghai traffic (which, incidentally, is not quite as crazy as Beijing traffic). The show was very interesting. Some Buddhist monks a couple of rows behind us seemed to enjoy it as well.

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We happened to be on the subway at rush hour one afternoon--quite an experience. It started out ok--we each had at least 2 sq. feet of floor space--but at each successive stop we added more people, and it didn't seem like anyone was getting off. After 3 or 4 stops, we were completely packed; I think the only way we could have fit more people was if people stood on top of people that were sitting. It was team bonding, in a literal sense. I found the situation hilarious, and drew some funny glances because I couldn't stop laughing. I'm sure the 3 people pressed against my back and side thought I was a little crazy; Adrianna and Adam, against whom I was being squeezed, found the situation funny as well. Oh, we love the subway. And we are very thankful that it's air-conditioned.

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The music that's playing in the internet cafe right now is a saxophone version of "Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas." Almost as good as when I was in a department store that was playing kids' songs in English. "I love my lovely dump truck..."

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We've eaten at some very nice restaurants here in Shanghai. Dr. Wilson almost always orders for us, as he's usually the only one who can make sense of the menu (although Christina and I have gotten pretty good at identifying the fruit juices). We're all very grateful that he can do this for us, so we only laughed a little bit when he made a mistake and we ended up with chicken feet.

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Speaking of food, as I mentioned when I was in Beijing, some Chinese dishes are a little hard to eat. One night it seemed like every dish we ordered had bones--some of them really small. Adrianna asked Dr. Wilson how he knew how to eat all of these dishes, and he replied that he'd attended a lot of banquets when he'd been here before, and usually copied what the Chinese people did. He said, "Once when I'd lived here for about a year, I was taking a boat to Hong Kong, and for some reason they insisted on seating me with the other foreigners at meals, even though I was perfectly comfortable with the Chinese people. Anyway, I guess I had gone a bit native, because one night they served fish for dinner, and I was spitting bones all over the table (the way the Chinese usually do), when I looked up to catch the shocked expressions on the other people's faces--like, what planet did you come from?!"

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I have been amazed and extremely happy about the great weather we've been having. The last couple of days though have been pretty hot. I went to a noodle shop for lunch yesterday, and I really felt sorry for the people in the kitchen, which was steaming. I was pleased when I got what I had intended to order (these type of street kitchens aren't really frequented by foreigners, so no pictures and definitely no English), and I sat down by the door where there was a little breeze to eat my noodles. I watched the people in the kitchen cooking and cleaning dishes, thinking that they must just be hating life. One of the girls filled a bowl with water and bent to pour it over her plastic-sandal-clad feet, bringing a little relief I suppose. I can't imagine how miserable that job must be in late July and August.

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The music now is some kind of Bollywood pop. It's almost time for me to meet up with the group, so I need to head back to the hotel. Maybe I'll stop and grab a baozi to eat on the way; Baozi are quite yummy, and at about 9 cents each, they make a very nice breakfast.